Dressing the Indian for the blazing summer is an art in itself

Surekha Kadapa-Bose   |   Mumbai

24-May-2014

Vol 5 | Issue 21

The Indian summer has arrived in all its glory. With the sun blazing and the temperatures slowly rising, it’s time to pull out all the light, natural fabrics from one’s wardrobe to beat the sweltering heat.

Of course, for the fashion forward, besides the soothing whites and breezy muslins, nowadays there are different cuts and colours on offer to make bold, fun statements.

This summer, experiment with bright colours to make a bold style statement (Photo: WFS)

Mumbai-based designer Ritika Bharwani, who has been trained in Fashion Entrepreneurship from the London College of Fashion, shares her fashion funda for the summer.

“From fabric to the silhouette make sure that it’s is all about dressing stylish and easy. Pick up trendy jumpsuits, maxi dresses, crop tops, midi skirts and swimwear but make sure they are all made from light-weight fabrics,” she says.

Bharwani, whose summer/resort lines are perfect for the young and hip, showcased a unique collection under her label ‘Ritika’ at the Talent Box for Lakmé Fashion Week in Mumbai last year.

Inspired by the sea and the beautiful coral reefs, the colour palette for this range comprised vibrant shades like flamingo pink, red and hot orange besides the softer tones of beige.

To add a funky element, the designer worked with beads, gold stones, tubes, as well as sequins for a sassy appeal. Her latest collection comes with glamorous numbers in low cuts and digital prints that exude a playful vibe.

Like Bharwani, designer Farah Sanjana, another alumnus of the London College of Fashion, who has previously worked with the international fashion luxury group, Escada, and iconic British couture designer, Vivienne Westwood, goes in for a combination of uber casual and feminine chic for the summer.

She says, “When I design for the season, I think of garments that can be worn at a sea-side resort or for a pool party, a brunch, a wine-and-cheese soiree or just a casual yet glamorous evening out. Everything has to be high on glamour with edgy sophistication.”

Sanjana's collection, The Flamboyance of Flamingos, for Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014 is youthful as well as sensual. The colours she has used are a refreshing blend of hot pink, sky blue, Hawaiian orange and candy orange.

What these fashionistas are emphasising through their collections is that there is really no need to look washed out or monochromatic during summers.

Instead, choose to be vivacious and exciting by sporting daring hues like yellow, red, aqua and green or neon shades or even pastel combos. And depending on where you are headed, adjust your attire, too.

Well-known designer Pria Kataria Puri, who has studied at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, San Francisco, where she presented her debut collection of Occidental Evening Wear at the San Francisco Fashion Centre, is partial to indigenous prints and traditional Indian embroidery.

According to her, “This summer is going to be all about prints - tribal, nomadic, floral, geometric and animal.”

Known for her kaftans, her newest summer line has a distinct bohemian feel to it and includes palazzos, high waist pants, jumpsuits and dresses in “happy” colours.

Describing her inspiration behind this collection she says that it represents a woman who is “constantly lusting after new challenges. She is passionate, adventurous, and independent …”

Puri’s area of expertise, hand embroidery, plays a significant role in all her collections and her designs, while modern in their form, have a distinct Indian flavour. The fabrics she favours are fluid, like chiffons, crepes, silk, satin and georgettes.

Incidentally, several Indian designers prefer natural textiles such as linen, silk, silk jersey and chiffons, besides the evergreen cotton.

Gaurang Shah’s ‘Chandbali’ latest collection for the summer bride has revived the ancient Jamdani weave, while Purvi Doshi’s ‘Renaissance’ line is fashioned in pure cotton. Nature and environment figure prominently in her work as her designs focus on flora and fauna and she uses natural dyes.

Shruti Sancheti's ‘Le Pondi’ collection for Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014 is a mix of intricately woven temple weaves with a trendy twist given to the pastel colour borders.

This season, however, the trendiest fabric on the international arena is sheer. Desi designers like Manish Malhotra, Kiran Uttam Ghosh, Surya, Shantanu & Nikhil, Shehla Khan, Atithi Gupta, Sonakshi Raaj, Anju Modi, Anita Dongre, Sonam & Paras Modi have created exclusive clothing lines from this semi-transparent, flimsy material.

Enumerating the merits of sheer, Abdul Haider, the only Indian designer to have done a show at the United Nations General Assembly in New York in 2008, says, “The delicate, flowing layers formed by sheer makes the wearer appear delicate and cool. Moreover, summerwear can be made sexy by covering cotton or silk with either Chantilly lace or wispy chiffon or tulle.”

Interestingly, the recently concluded General Elections have also left their mark on the dressing sensibilities of the common woman and man. Khadi, the hand-spun fabric synonymous with the Mahatma and a favourite of local political leaders, has gained prominence, as have the coloured, cut-sleeve jackets and bundies in cotton and silk.

Khadi also enjoys the endorsement of many designers. While Deepika Gehani has produced several collections with the fabric that is “ideal for contemporary Indian as well as Western cuts”, Rahul Mishra has showcased "khadi …in various forms like jumpsuits, skirts, tunics and trousers”.

So this summer, stay hydrated, slather on sun block and up the couture quotient by incorporating some of these exciting style tips. However, do keep in mind that ultimately, fashion has to be a matter of personal expression and comfort. - Women's Feature Service